Whether you are Donald Trump well fitted in a Brioni power suit, an instagram thot begging for acceptance, a student trying to push the vernacular of your wardrobe or a fuccboi conveniently dressed outside Somerset House for London fashion week, because when else will you wear Nike MAG’s?
The traditional tight-fitted suites and jackets are opposed in number by street style, no longer is a natural tailored shoulder, or the silk top hat of John Hetherington in 1797, enough to cause a riot in London. The pioneering of fashion has come to its zenith under its conservative design, a more affordable new aesthetic can only be embraced for its survival, the same shift was seen in art under the futurists manifesto of F.T. Marinetti. He called for “the love of danger, the use of energy and recklessness as common, daily practice.” designers and creatives in major cities, are funding themselves, finding new ways to express their own art and morality. Futurists rejected museums and tour guides with their traditional public pursuits, calling them graveyards and wastes of youthful talent, as their passions should only be turned towards the future, rejecting a past no-one alive had experienced.
Non-conformists in art such as Marrinetti or Umberto Buccioni reflect in contemporary fashion in like manner as the utilitarians, their purpose is to interpret and generate ideas, technology and culture engrossing the next generation. Utilitarianism design is heralded as the anthesis of the fashion industry to some. Further, the influences of minimalism which rejects social norms, to buy or dress as others do, freeing itself and those who embrace it from the superfluous possessions of civil society, acts as its own direction for contemporary concepts and designs.
Designers such as Samuel Ross, understand the use of uniform style, by having a base or minimal standard of dress, minimal philosophy, one can focus on other things, than becoming bogged down in the intricacies of convention. By wearing only black, or variating the same outfit, or having a specific wardrobe or sustainable standard way of living, some people seem happier and focused by these methods. Dress codes under utilitarian design, focus on making the wearer more conscious of their surroundings, having an outfit as a uniform to your life, which has helped people spend more time on what is important in their life, a convenient example of such consistencies was Steve Jobs in his turtleneck and blue jeans, maybe not a fashion icon but a creative nonetheless. Obama and countless other businessmen, whatever politicians, millennials (Generation Z), find that reducing the amount of decisions can be beneficial, from simply just using one colour to dress or deleting social media, as a means to find more time. Jaden Smith has given the same reason for deleting his social media accounts, so yeah.
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The acceptance of different creative limits on fashion has always been controversial, whether it is Rick Owens f/w collection 2015 (feat.penis),
Sudanese supermodel Alek Wek defying the media ‘blackout’ of beauty,
or Dsquared accessorising their models with cigarettes in Milan 2012.
The fashion industry has begun to recognise that new intrepid designers are addressing the new framework of utilitarianism for a younger clientele.
A-COLD-WALL (Samuel Ross)
Samuel Ross who recognises London as the focus for British street style and culture through his articulation and voicing of creative identity. A-COLD-WALL distinctly expresses its refined mood of loose fits and softer tones, which Ross sees as a merge between the traditional and contemporary references of style. Ross from dressing and identifying influences from the the working class style and behaviour, incorporates the differences in social classes and communities across the UK, impacting the shape of his work.
Ross’ brand uses London and Rotterdam as its creative stage, hosting art installations on ‘Wage inequality Issues’ in collaboration with his seasonal collections. Each collection expressing the truth of British culture, the street culture’s emotion, rather than the glorified pieces of other designers that are “disconnected” from the real spirit of the streets. Ross had many influences from Virgil Abloh, and his fashion label Off-White.
Yang Li is identified with his contemporaries as a success under the flag of minimalism since 2012. After graduating Central Saint Martins he worked under bold pioneers such as Raf Simons, since then his clear cut designs have vocalised rebellion and the veering focus of fashion towards the rising urban generation.
Presenting Yang Li F/W 2016 collection (9th collection).
Fear of God (Jerry Lorenzo)
Above is Creative Director Jerry Lorenzo (left) and artist, activist Yasiin Bey (right, Mos Def), Fear of God offers the same clothing philosophy as A-COLD-WALL by its looser fit and coveted collections flaunted by arts students, musicians and style icons alike. Lorenzo has made four collections under his brand Fear of God, a brand aimed a “destroying dress code’s” with its Allen Iverson rebellious and hip-hop silhouette.
Adonis Bosso in Fear of God’s 2016 look book, (left), a sound favourite of contemporaries: Public School, Hood By Air and star of Yeezy S/S 2016. Thick layering and raw bombers throughout, the newest collection boasts the concurrent real and uncompromising styles, which compliments Delilah Parillo (right) so well.
Happy New Year to the Westerners, here is a playlist of some personal favourites in 2015 and Chinese new year starts on the 8th of February, Best Wishes.