Guess Drop and Individual Style

by: freddie

Streetwear since the late 1990’s has taken a popular surge in fashion culture, you can see demand prevailing from brands like Supreme, Kith, Bape, Stussy, Guess, to the full tracksuit/jumpsuit Adidas Original look. From the underground to the recognised high fashion houses and artist’s endorsements.

High fashion houses like Chanel partnered with their newest ambassador Willow Smith, 8 days ago in Paris, to combine their aesthetic with her own – futuristic streetwear is the artistic direction at the current of established houses to acknowledge the reality of streetwear’s popularity in fashion. Maison Margiela for example have yielded to the trend with the release of their Future Sneakers. While the established fashion houses have slowly succumbed to the streetwear market, (as pictured) such products have not reached the desired level of demand as expected by the houses’ designers.

31FB321000000578-3481895-Space_age_style_In_keeping_with_her_reputation_the_fashion_forwa-m-21_1457433822520maison-martin-margiela-black-sueded-high-top-sneakers.jpeg

Artist’s style and endorsement of a brand can affect their sales and achieve a greater outreach for brands such and rivals, such as Adidas or Nike, greatly influencing the move from the decadence of the fashion’s industry conservative design (As mentioned in previous articles.) Even Zara last week launched a gender fluid collection. Of course, luxury brands like Chanel, being commercial powerhouses, have the funds to be dynamic enough to defy the category within the antiquity of which other couture houses may lie in.

Now, A$AP Rocky is an artist – further a cultural icon at that, wielding the mass media through his modish medium then penetrating fashion at his will, the style eternal of Lord Pretty Flacko (after Yasiin Bey) gave a great celebrity endorsement to the new Guess Originals collection.  The limited collection of the rapper’s collaboration and designs brought attention to the ‘Basement’ crowd (facebook community), further the ephemeral skateboard fit.

 

asap-rocky-guess-collaboration-15.jpgasap-rocky-guess-collaboration-004.jpg

 

I know this article is already polemical enough,  I am also hypocritical in following the conventional hype and while I may seem like a jilted John, despising the “cool and trendy”, this piece is meant to outline the difference between the conventional and previously established styles.

 

tumblr_o11vnv41GE1u98oboo1_1280.jpgScreen Shot 2016-03-07 at 22.31.20.png

 

As all the young dudes were penned in queueing at Peter Street on Soho for the S/S16 Supreme drop (featured),  the same was for the likes of the Guess x A$AP drop online, usual Hypebeast/Basement keyboard warriors that debate whether Ian Connor got it right this season for Yeezy “Yesterday’s Tomorrow”, or how the Adidas NMD’s are fucking ill (even with the addition of 4 new colour ways as of 3 days ago). Whether glazed eyed over your laptop right now, the perseverance of some people is admirable just in order to cop a pair of black Yeezy 750’s, H&M x Balmain, or even any limited stock trainers.

Despite the convictions of the teens joining the streetwear trend, many seize membership of the Basement to resell designer purchases. Some because they know of nothing other than the road life. Resellers have grasped and taken full advantage of the crowds demand for trends in contemporary fashion, the retail price to resell difference is a large margin.

adidas-nmd-primeknit-grey-black-2.jpg

The Basement is the streetwear digital home, to sell purchases, meet ups, shoots, or sharing ‘what did you wear today’ (WDYWT) or ‘rate my fit’ posts. This facebook community is what perpetuates their determination to sit in the cold overnight waiting for the next drop. Some of my close friends use the facebook group, for inspiration, to gain exposure, or to rip into people wearing a ‘shit fit’. I personally like the basement for insight into the art direction of people my age in London and some members shared invaluable links at five in the morning to the Connor McGregor fight too.

the-basement-streetwear-community-00.jpgScreen Shot 2016-03-11 at 19.30.15

For instance some of this crowd dress exactly as Tyler, the Creator dictated,  which was addressed in his recent freestyle 4 cover – the same goes for Yeezy fans. Some people just needed an icon while growing up or a father figure. Being a Yeezy fan hurts, I understand that, his Twitter tirades,  £53 million debt…  I won’t join the oversaturated commentary. He is a virtuoso and the music to fashion creative crossovers are occurring  because of his instigation, Rihanna branched with her collaboration Puma with with their recent collection.

Of course Kanye West was not the first musician,  people like Pharrell with Nigo and Bape have been in the contemporary fashion industry for decades. This generation’s ability to penetrate an understanding of higher fashion is the result of a complex interplay of factors; improvements in telecommunication and social media have created a new platform for creative outreach.  For example there now Instagram models for hire – Penguin books do not have have anything on this, Orwell and Huxley missed this shit. 

 

Now like any other 1990’s Scottish kid going through peer pressure on the playground – I enjoyed Beyblades (chanting “let it rip”), begging my mother to buy me football trading cards – nothing out of the particular. However, the information age has a new collection of consumables for kids on the playground by consuming iPod’s and wearing a certain brand to be accepted in a group (fuck load of ket). The connotation of buying something for acceptance or to be cool and held in regard among peers is quite shallow, but it is not unusual.  The same continues today, if you can afford it:  iPads or R8’s – Veblen goods,  they are not worth their production cost  but they are still cool under the eyes of socialites. The desire’s driving the petty affections in which to identify with different social groups continues, but Beyblades battles were cooler than iPad’s or any supercar.

Just as the kids on the playground trade sweets, drugs, trading cards, we just gain new desires and vices, the kids desperately craving the Guess Drop, are trying to fit in, nothing more. We all give into ourselves in some way.

 


 

Every morning you may sit on the tube and try not to stare into someones eyes for too long, so you look down at the shoes of the commuters opposite and maybe a few weeks ago your hangover was amplified by the amount of loud outfits getting off at Tottenham Court Road Station. Whether they fabrics were grand or matched with tops full of red feathers, stud lined jackets and well anything ostentatious enough to grab a photographers eye -myself included.

Team VII HD.jpg

For four weeks every year London Fashion Week is the industry’s largest parade in the UK, on Brewer street in Soho and some parts at Somerset House off of Aldwych, it was a great place to link with photographers, writers and musicians. Even gaining a follow by one photographer’s dog called Otis on Instagram now – loved seeing that notification on my feed.

Hipsters, posers, outside of the show space, just as the sheep wait penned outside for the Supreme or Guess drop – count me in equally in hypocrisy either as an exhibitor guest or to capture the streetwear combinations – its great to see people come from all over to show off their individual style in London.

The return of Alexander Mcqueen label to London for the first time in 14 years. Sarah Burton’s designs took to the cat walk on the Sunday night at Lawrence Hall in Westminster, the flowing romantic display was safely marked the highlight of the week.

1456092547-6d534352f8c17bdd7a2a839796ae9e81-1366x2271.jpgIMG_6813.JPG

 

 

Advertisements

epoch of irrationality… Eric André

by: freddie

However your life may respond to the unreasonable silence of the world, Eric André takes you far away. Whether you first watched the Eric Andre Show at gun point, on the underground tasting someones armpit at rush hour, at home with your aunt who says that she knew Tracey Emin or in your warm apartment with your dog/soul mate.

“The Eric Andre Show is a late night talk show, with an alternate reality.”

Each episode of the Eric Andre Show opens by assaulting your eyes with psychotic images that cannot be unseen, this introduction acts as the only preparation for the next 20 minutes of the show’s content .

Not only do I adore how Eric André vets his guests with LSD, or shock collars but he takes established artists such as: Chance the Rapper, Killer Mike, Mac Demarco, Wiz Khalifa, Mike Rollins, Questlove… and makes them rap battle on treadmills, or edits their responses on topics such as drone bombing in Pakistan. Eric André would play porn at a family meal in the name of art. Forget gimmicky artists like William Pope L. who said that “white people are the future”, Eric André with a friend ran into a civil war reenactment in Greenvile South Carolina, in act called Slaves, to gauge horror into the pale eyes of those who want to sweeten the writings of history.

Hannibal Buress is the co-host on his show, a venerable stand up comedian also a familiar face as he won the roast of Justin Bieber.

“i don’t like your music. …i think you’re a great business man.”

Hannibal and Eric work in akimbo, throughout the seasons the show has successfully continued to keep their dynamic routine, from talking about where ladders came from or composing songs inspired by masturbation. Somehow their mind distorting means of expressing genius has brought them recognition to people who can pay bills and Season 4 is set to be released soon.

Like Buress Eric André is a great stand up comic, his current show on Broadway which started last night seems to be a success. His presence on social media is adored but not only does his presence strike fear to the general public but also his penis. GQ magazine wrote about his brown phallus and timed how long it took Instagram to take down the tasteful nudes from his account, because these are our concerns in life.

We did it MLK, pop culture now relies on being informed about the censorship of explicit black penis, people care – its great world we live in.

While it is claimed, that Eric André’s ‘dic-pics’ were a means of bringing attention to the ‘free the nipple’ campaign for equality of women’s, the censorship and sexualisation of women’s breasts. In reality he just loves doing weird shit.

Notably Eric André flaunts his talents in performance art by bringing awareness to  his cultural identity of being a potato… and founding the Black Scientologists movement, a pseudoscience under the practice of dianetics for Afro-Americans alike. “L. Ron Hubbard was a black man, his name was L. Ron Hoyabembe…”

Eric André while unemployed wrote, presented and edited the shows pilot himself, additionally he learnt how to use Final Cut Pro, then hired a homeless man to play Russell Brand (who worships the dark lord Satan).

<blockquote class=”twitter-tweet” lang=”en”><p lang=”en” dir=”ltr”>Can I make the music video for <a href=”https://twitter.com/HudMo”>@HudMo</a&gt; 's Ryderz???</p>&mdash; Eric Andre (@ericandre) <a href=”https://twitter.com/ericandre/status/689226439183306752″>January 18, 2016</a></blockquote> //platform.twitter.com/widgets.js

He also loves Hudson Mohawke so we like him.

 

Vacant – Hiraeth

“Just get on your knees and point the camera up at the back of my head. It’s art, you wouldn’t understand”

by: cameron

Hailing from South London, Vacant is a producer oozing atmosphere in his recently premièred track ‘Hiraeth’. Effortlessly mixing shuffling drums with an anonymous seeping female vocal sample which in recent years has become synonymous with producers thrusting themselves outside the lime-light. After recently gaining momentum through the motions of SoundCloud, gaining co-signs from the UK DJ’s such as Plastician and returning from a recent tour of Russia recently, Vacant has set himself apart from his peers merely following meekly with footsteps.

Listening with intent towards his other 2 stand-out tracks, ‘Wanderer’ and ‘Fate’, and it’s clear that this could easily find home on the label Hyperdub, infamous for Burial’s 2007 Untrue (an album which famously took 2-step garage and gave it the musical equivalent of condensing a bad heroin experience into 50 or so minutes). His collaborations excel further beyond diluted imitation producers found in every ‘Related Tracks’ list on SoundCloud at the moment, working alongside New Zealand producer ‘POLO’ to produce the haunting ‘Wound’.

Get in the mix below:

In the Thought of Style

by: freddie

 

Whether you are Donald Trump well fitted in a Brioni power suit, an instagram thot begging for acceptance, a student trying to push the vernacular of your wardrobe or a fuccboi conveniently dressed outside Somerset House for London fashion week, because when else will you wear Nike MAG’s?

Screen Shot 2015-12-30 at 16.02.37

The traditional tight-fitted suites and jackets are opposed in number by street style, no longer is a natural tailored shoulder, or the silk top hat of John Hetherington in 1797, enough to cause a riot in London. The pioneering of fashion has come to its zenith under its conservative design, a more affordable new aesthetic can only be embraced for its survival, the same shift was seen in art under the futurists manifesto of F.T. Marinetti. He called for “the love of danger, the use of energy and recklessness as common, daily practice.” designers and creatives in major cities, are funding themselves, finding new ways to express their own art and morality. Futurists rejected museums and tour guides with their traditional public pursuits, calling them graveyards and wastes of youthful talent, as their passions should only be turned towards the future, rejecting a past no-one alive had experienced.

Non-conformists in art such as Marrinetti or Umberto Buccioni reflect in contemporary fashion in like manner as the utilitarians, their purpose is to interpret and generate ideas, technology and culture engrossing the next generation. Utilitarianism design is heralded as the anthesis of the fashion industry to some. Further, the influences of minimalism which rejects social norms, to buy or dress as others do, freeing itself and those who embrace it from the superfluous possessions of civil society, acts as its own direction for contemporary concepts and designs.

https://vine.co/v/eTbFmHTzjwn/embed/simplehttps://platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js

Designers such as Samuel Ross, understand the use of uniform style, by having a base or minimal standard of dress, minimal philosophy, one can focus on other things, than becoming bogged down in the intricacies of convention. By wearing only black, or variating the same outfit, or having a specific wardrobe or sustainable standard way of living, some people seem happier and focused by these methods. Dress codes under utilitarian design, focus on making the wearer more conscious of their surroundings, having an outfit as a uniform to your life, which has helped people spend more time on what is important in their life, a convenient example of such consistencies was Steve Jobs in his turtleneck and blue jeans, maybe not a fashion icon but a creative nonetheless.  Obama and countless other businessmen, whatever politicians, millennials (Generation Z), find that reducing the amount of decisions can be beneficial, from simply just using one colour to dress or deleting social media, as a means to find more time. Jaden Smith has given the same reason for deleting his social media accounts, so yeah.

Don’t read this.

Watch this.

The acceptance of different creative limits on fashion has always been controversial, whether it is Rick Owens f/w collection 2015 (feat.penis),

Rick-Owens-_glamour_23jan15_getty_b_720x1080

Sudanese supermodel Alek Wek defying the media ‘blackout’ of beauty,

9cf65d263c9210c2c531f4d5f13c5db3.gif

or Dsquared accessorising their models with cigarettes in Milan 2012.

D-Squared-smoking.jpg

The fashion industry has begun to recognise that new intrepid designers are addressing the new framework of utilitarianism for a younger clientele.

 

A-COLD-WALL (Samuel Ross)

a-cold-wall-spatial-awareness-installation-0.jpg

Samuel Ross who recognises London as the focus for British street style and culture through his articulation and voicing of creative identity. A-COLD-WALL distinctly expresses its refined mood of loose fits and softer tones, which Ross sees as a merge between the traditional and contemporary references of style. Ross from dressing and identifying influences from the the working class style and behaviour, incorporates the differences in social classes and communities across the UK, impacting the shape of his work.

a-cold-wall-x-harvey-nichols-2015-spring-summer-public-form-lookbook-00

Ross’ brand uses London and Rotterdam as its creative stage, hosting art installations on ‘Wage inequality Issues’ in collaboration with his seasonal collections. Each collection expressing the truth of British culture, the street culture’s emotion, rather than the glorified pieces of other designers that are “disconnected” from the real spirit of the streets. Ross had many influences from Virgil Abloh, and his fashion label Off-White.

a-cold-wall-2015-fall-winter-lookbook-04.jpga-cold-wall-2015-fall-winter-lookbook-05.jpg

Yang Li

 

Yang Li is identified with his contemporaries as a success under the flag of minimalism since 2012. After graduating Central Saint Martins he worked under bold pioneers such as Raf Simons, since then his clear cut designs have vocalised rebellion and the veering focus of fashion towards the rising urban generation.

Presenting Yang Li F/W 2016 collection (9th collection).

 

Fear of God (Jerry Lorenzo)

z21.jpg

Above is Creative Director Jerry Lorenzo (left) and artist, activist Yasiin Bey (right, Mos Def), Fear of God offers the same clothing philosophy as A-COLD-WALL by its looser fit and coveted collections flaunted by arts students, musicians and style icons alike. Lorenzo has made four collections under his brand Fear of God, a brand aimed a “destroying dress code’s” with its Allen Iverson rebellious and hip-hop silhouette.

fourthcollection-lookbook-12.jpgfourthcollection-lookbook-14.jpg

Adonis Bosso in Fear of God’s 2016 look book, (left), a sound favourite of contemporaries: Public School, Hood By Air and star of Yeezy S/S 2016. Thick layering and raw bombers throughout, the newest collection boasts the concurrent real and uncompromising styles, which compliments Delilah Parillo (right) so well.

fourthcollection-lookbook-9.jpgfourthcollection-lookbook-26.jpg

Happy New Year to the Westerners, here is a playlist of some personal favourites in 2015 and Chinese new year starts on the 8th of February, Best Wishes.