gender roles, & paris fashion week: fall 2016/17 menswear

by: freddie

Menswear Higher fashion is widely accepted at its peak by Paris fashion week (20th-24th January) with its houses and guest houses releases: Agnes B, Ami, Balmain, Commes Des Garçon, Dior Homme, Y-3… On the 20th of January ‘Off-White’ saw its first Paris cat walk exhibition, with Ian Connor (DONDA and creative consultant) dragging out Creative Director Virgil Abloh to a humble encore. However, this year Saint Laurent did not close the menswear releases, to be held instead in L.A. on February the 10th. Saint Laurent – Hedi Slimane‘s revered rock/punk attitude and razor cheek bones, signature skinny silhouette, influenced conventional dress codes of gender to a more androgynous acceptance. He made dress code indeterminate to gender again for myself and many in the 21st century cool, like the New Romantics did in the 80’s, recently deceased David Bowie was the King of Androgyny with his character Ziggy Stardust.

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Ziggy Stardust, the alien “played it left hand” with his band ‘the Spiders from Mars.’
David Bowie
1976: David Bowie poses for an RCA publicity shot in 1976. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

 

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DIOR HOMME – Kris Van Assche – F/W 2016/17

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The cat walk is its own exhibition of fashion, for Fall 2016/17 neon skate park, with a dramatic Willy Vanderperre directed visual in the background. A refined sense of neo-classicism executed correctly “without nostalgia”. Gesaffelstein (Mike Levy) ‘the dark prince of techno’, Zane Lowe described him as “en vogue”, Bromance Records colossus, Yeezus producer, and a face of Dior. Gesaffelstein would have been proud of the performance; red beams of light giving a new lustre to the focal grand chandelier. The Dior fall performance seemed close to Mike Levy’s own brutal but beautiful displays, 101 bpm violent rhythms with saturated synths, he DJ’s cigarette in hand in any EU club, all as a means of catharsis.

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Gesaffelstein (left – Mike Levy) – Kris Van Assche (right)

There was still a unifying essence of progressive undertones by small gestures such as black nail polish, despite the creative directors statement of the collection being street to Dior house silhouette integration.

Many Paris fashion houses do not see the need to merge female models into menswear, a static view for Dior asserting  a “contemporary generation” collection.  Due to their haute couture collections, dividing fashion into menswear and womenswear is to many “enough” for the LGBT community. However, Addressing gender roles through two specialised houses seems archaic to the progressive dress wear integration we see in society. Many LGBT groups understand that Dior’s fall collection featuring black nail polish on their male models is simply not “enough”, it marginalises the attitudes for accepting gender neutral fashion.

The fall collection featured a burnished theme throughout with thin fine bow ties and bright satiny collars, napoleonic military hats, duffels, embroided scarves, romantic 6 piece necklaces. Kris Van Assche despite being Hedi Slimane‘s first assistant for a time at Yves Saint Laurent, has suffered labels under critics as irrelevant or reactionary, which is suiting in contrast to the displays of gender neutral efforts by other houses.

Previous to Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton – S/S 16 revealed Jayden Smith at 17 years of age as their face of womenswear, photographed for their ad campaign by Bruce Weber. To challenge masculinity in conventional fashion is great step, however Complex may have frame it with words like “experimentation” or the Independent want to establish the differences of gender dress codes to a “uniform”, only to embellish the need to break down traditional proclamations for how people should dress according to society’s doctrine. People can wear genderless clothes, Juun J is a great example of that in higher fashion. The LGBT community and many other figures understand the step Jaden Smith took to stop the categorising of peoples perceived gender.

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conversely…  

“As a double standard, women can wear men’s clothing in a way that men can’t wear women’s. A woman can walk into the men’s department without getting any weird looks, either because it is assumed that she is buying something for a guy or because it is ok for a girl to wear guys clothing. A woman can wear men’s clothing and still be sexy in today’s social climate. A man gets a different response for wearing makeup or traditionally feminine clothes.”

Mildred Browns, 21 

 

Many London creatives, friends and myself, notice the bemused faces while walking to work or Uni. How tradition finds wearing tall cuban heels, nail polish, or when we objectively walk into the ‘women’s section’ to find a nice black neckerchief tie, how is this unacceptable in social society? The connotations of a man wearing makeup, for instance black lipstick receives vast reproval, unless you are icons such as Mick Jagger or David Bowie, able to challenge convention in the name of rock’s counter culture. Or Yeezy, today’s rock star, rocking a Vetements oversized hoodie (pour femme).
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Paris Fashion week saw a lot of mourning for Bowie, re-branding, changes in taste and reigning in of the wild and bizarre fashion show stunts which only reinforce the satirical commentary which will be seen in Zoolander 2


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Dries Van Noten – Fall 2016/17

The overall winner, the Belgian designer produced a cadre of outfits for his own peaceful military. The embroidered badges accentuating the winter jackets and coat corners. Upturned starched green trousers, a uniform of sophistication and sleek velvet. Influences from the 60’s, with the same wavy fonts of the ‘free love’ era that was used on the album Are You Experienced?

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My favourite from the collection was the opulent Drive-(2011)-esque bomber. Peacocking never looked so good.


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Ilan Chetrite’s simple silhouette of ankle tapered leather trousers, and thick black rubber soled shoes juxtaposed against the neutral toned fabrics. Wearable and romantic not minimal. He praises 80’s german influences, to the contemporary Parisian scene, balancing “volume and Fabric”. A well adjusted ultra-modern mix.

Even though I wear my student loan as it is, this warm beige/camel jacket would fit nicely in my cupboard. A straightforward fit for someone seeking to create a character on a night out in Camden.


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Rei Kawakubo’s radical label featured ‘COMMES DES GARÇON Shirt – FW 2016/17’ the day after this predominantly monochrome collection. Frida Kahlo like floral headpieces, 3 panel layered sleeves, wearable, sleek prints, armour like studded jackets. Straps were a consistent feature at Paris menswear fashion week: Yohji Yamamoto, Craig Green, Dries Van Noten…

I know my mum would hate them on me, but the black poetic pleated skirts of last season were as eye catching as this season’s studded derby’s. Shout-out to my friend ‘The Basement’ hound Sam in his CDG Doc’s. Vero loves Commes Des Garçon for its ‘anti-fashion’ design.


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Yohji Yamamoto – F/W 2016/17 _MON0265_426x639.jpg

On Thursday 21st of January at 6 p.m. crowds crammed into see the spiritual leader of calm fashion – Yohji Yamamoto. Described as “ninja goth grandmaster of minimalism” – spurted from some idle keyboard savage. Each project and collection Yamamoto rests on flows with Japanese admiration and his own identity, whether at Y-3 with Adidas, in tandem with fellow Keio University graduate Kawakubo or Issey Miyake.

It is easy to miss the momentous amount of detail in each of his lines, the simplicity is shown from restraint.

 

 


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Rick Owens – F/W 2016/17 

There was an atmosphere of uncertainty surrounding what to expect with this years fall collection by Rick Owens, as the controversy of his 2015/16 fall collection revealed too much genitalia for the blushing critics, as well as his spring collection of “human backpacks”. Lax coats, zipped drapes and gaunt faced models walking on their trouser ends, were this years feature. Chalk white makeup emphasised the models structures with, knees, adams apple’s and jaws, clanging through Rick Owen’s minimal concrete jungle.

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This week is still New York Fashion Week, London Fashion week A/W 2016/17 commences February 19th-23rd, until Alexander McQueen’s collection returns home to London here is a small playlist to numb the pain of reason, rationality and the absurdity that your parents perpetuated in birthing you. Have a great day, smile and hug harder than you did yesterday.

 

 

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epoch of irrationality… Eric André

by: freddie

However your life may respond to the unreasonable silence of the world, Eric André takes you far away. Whether you first watched the Eric Andre Show at gun point, on the underground tasting someones armpit at rush hour, at home with your aunt who says that she knew Tracey Emin or in your warm apartment with your dog/soul mate.

“The Eric Andre Show is a late night talk show, with an alternate reality.”

Each episode of the Eric Andre Show opens by assaulting your eyes with psychotic images that cannot be unseen, this introduction acts as the only preparation for the next 20 minutes of the show’s content .

Not only do I adore how Eric André vets his guests with LSD, or shock collars but he takes established artists such as: Chance the Rapper, Killer Mike, Mac Demarco, Wiz Khalifa, Mike Rollins, Questlove… and makes them rap battle on treadmills, or edits their responses on topics such as drone bombing in Pakistan. Eric André would play porn at a family meal in the name of art. Forget gimmicky artists like William Pope L. who said that “white people are the future”, Eric André with a friend ran into a civil war reenactment in Greenvile South Carolina, in act called Slaves, to gauge horror into the pale eyes of those who want to sweeten the writings of history.

Hannibal Buress is the co-host on his show, a venerable stand up comedian also a familiar face as he won the roast of Justin Bieber.

“i don’t like your music. …i think you’re a great business man.”

Hannibal and Eric work in akimbo, throughout the seasons the show has successfully continued to keep their dynamic routine, from talking about where ladders came from or composing songs inspired by masturbation. Somehow their mind distorting means of expressing genius has brought them recognition to people who can pay bills and Season 4 is set to be released soon.

Like Buress Eric André is a great stand up comic, his current show on Broadway which started last night seems to be a success. His presence on social media is adored but not only does his presence strike fear to the general public but also his penis. GQ magazine wrote about his brown phallus and timed how long it took Instagram to take down the tasteful nudes from his account, because these are our concerns in life.

We did it MLK, pop culture now relies on being informed about the censorship of explicit black penis, people care – its great world we live in.

While it is claimed, that Eric André’s ‘dic-pics’ were a means of bringing attention to the ‘free the nipple’ campaign for equality of women’s, the censorship and sexualisation of women’s breasts. In reality he just loves doing weird shit.

Notably Eric André flaunts his talents in performance art by bringing awareness to  his cultural identity of being a potato… and founding the Black Scientologists movement, a pseudoscience under the practice of dianetics for Afro-Americans alike. “L. Ron Hubbard was a black man, his name was L. Ron Hoyabembe…”

Eric André while unemployed wrote, presented and edited the shows pilot himself, additionally he learnt how to use Final Cut Pro, then hired a homeless man to play Russell Brand (who worships the dark lord Satan).

<blockquote class=”twitter-tweet” lang=”en”><p lang=”en” dir=”ltr”>Can I make the music video for <a href=”https://twitter.com/HudMo”>@HudMo</a&gt; 's Ryderz???</p>&mdash; Eric Andre (@ericandre) <a href=”https://twitter.com/ericandre/status/689226439183306752″>January 18, 2016</a></blockquote> //platform.twitter.com/widgets.js

He also loves Hudson Mohawke so we like him.

 

In the Thought of Style

by: freddie

 

Whether you are Donald Trump well fitted in a Brioni power suit, an instagram thot begging for acceptance, a student trying to push the vernacular of your wardrobe or a fuccboi conveniently dressed outside Somerset House for London fashion week, because when else will you wear Nike MAG’s?

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The traditional tight-fitted suites and jackets are opposed in number by street style, no longer is a natural tailored shoulder, or the silk top hat of John Hetherington in 1797, enough to cause a riot in London. The pioneering of fashion has come to its zenith under its conservative design, a more affordable new aesthetic can only be embraced for its survival, the same shift was seen in art under the futurists manifesto of F.T. Marinetti. He called for “the love of danger, the use of energy and recklessness as common, daily practice.” designers and creatives in major cities, are funding themselves, finding new ways to express their own art and morality. Futurists rejected museums and tour guides with their traditional public pursuits, calling them graveyards and wastes of youthful talent, as their passions should only be turned towards the future, rejecting a past no-one alive had experienced.

Non-conformists in art such as Marrinetti or Umberto Buccioni reflect in contemporary fashion in like manner as the utilitarians, their purpose is to interpret and generate ideas, technology and culture engrossing the next generation. Utilitarianism design is heralded as the anthesis of the fashion industry to some. Further, the influences of minimalism which rejects social norms, to buy or dress as others do, freeing itself and those who embrace it from the superfluous possessions of civil society, acts as its own direction for contemporary concepts and designs.

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Designers such as Samuel Ross, understand the use of uniform style, by having a base or minimal standard of dress, minimal philosophy, one can focus on other things, than becoming bogged down in the intricacies of convention. By wearing only black, or variating the same outfit, or having a specific wardrobe or sustainable standard way of living, some people seem happier and focused by these methods. Dress codes under utilitarian design, focus on making the wearer more conscious of their surroundings, having an outfit as a uniform to your life, which has helped people spend more time on what is important in their life, a convenient example of such consistencies was Steve Jobs in his turtleneck and blue jeans, maybe not a fashion icon but a creative nonetheless.  Obama and countless other businessmen, whatever politicians, millennials (Generation Z), find that reducing the amount of decisions can be beneficial, from simply just using one colour to dress or deleting social media, as a means to find more time. Jaden Smith has given the same reason for deleting his social media accounts, so yeah.

Don’t read this.

Watch this.

The acceptance of different creative limits on fashion has always been controversial, whether it is Rick Owens f/w collection 2015 (feat.penis),

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Sudanese supermodel Alek Wek defying the media ‘blackout’ of beauty,

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or Dsquared accessorising their models with cigarettes in Milan 2012.

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The fashion industry has begun to recognise that new intrepid designers are addressing the new framework of utilitarianism for a younger clientele.

 

A-COLD-WALL (Samuel Ross)

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Samuel Ross who recognises London as the focus for British street style and culture through his articulation and voicing of creative identity. A-COLD-WALL distinctly expresses its refined mood of loose fits and softer tones, which Ross sees as a merge between the traditional and contemporary references of style. Ross from dressing and identifying influences from the the working class style and behaviour, incorporates the differences in social classes and communities across the UK, impacting the shape of his work.

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Ross’ brand uses London and Rotterdam as its creative stage, hosting art installations on ‘Wage inequality Issues’ in collaboration with his seasonal collections. Each collection expressing the truth of British culture, the street culture’s emotion, rather than the glorified pieces of other designers that are “disconnected” from the real spirit of the streets. Ross had many influences from Virgil Abloh, and his fashion label Off-White.

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Yang Li

 

Yang Li is identified with his contemporaries as a success under the flag of minimalism since 2012. After graduating Central Saint Martins he worked under bold pioneers such as Raf Simons, since then his clear cut designs have vocalised rebellion and the veering focus of fashion towards the rising urban generation.

Presenting Yang Li F/W 2016 collection (9th collection).

 

Fear of God (Jerry Lorenzo)

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Above is Creative Director Jerry Lorenzo (left) and artist, activist Yasiin Bey (right, Mos Def), Fear of God offers the same clothing philosophy as A-COLD-WALL by its looser fit and coveted collections flaunted by arts students, musicians and style icons alike. Lorenzo has made four collections under his brand Fear of God, a brand aimed a “destroying dress code’s” with its Allen Iverson rebellious and hip-hop silhouette.

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Adonis Bosso in Fear of God’s 2016 look book, (left), a sound favourite of contemporaries: Public School, Hood By Air and star of Yeezy S/S 2016. Thick layering and raw bombers throughout, the newest collection boasts the concurrent real and uncompromising styles, which compliments Delilah Parillo (right) so well.

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Happy New Year to the Westerners, here is a playlist of some personal favourites in 2015 and Chinese new year starts on the 8th of February, Best Wishes.

Sam Gelliatry – Escapism – EP

by: freddie

Escapism – EP

Sam Gelliatry‘s new EP is the focal piece of this article, upon going to his EP launch event at the Phonox on the 4th of December, and then deciphering the enigmatic notes on my phone, an empirical account was needed.

The 5 track EP offered – saturated djembe’s, bongo and cajon drums, all transposed as instruments or rhythmic tones, the Escapism EP offers a positive side to the notion of cultural integration.

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Just as gardens offer a wide selection of floral specimens that would otherwise live far and wide from one another. The artist has arranged each clip between warm 808’s, to fill the sounds and emphasis empty silences, the clarity of his production offers its own dialogue, only the track “Long Distance” offered vocal support.

Like many DIY artists Gelliatry’s start came from soundcloud and viral fame among the IDM and UK hip-hop community. It was worth the wait for his debut EP, and only embellished the hype around him. With a rabble of London poets enjoyed hearing the track powder burn into our ivory skulls.

 


 

Now, as intelligence agencies alike read this, and every post by myself and my ethnic friends, it is almost Christmas time. A period to spend in frivolity with those who prayed for you and gave you devout acceptance from that cosy womb. Many artists suffer around this time of year or early in the new year,

Much like the introduction of this Scottish producer’s EP, its content is supreme.

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Take some.

December is usually a quiet month for artists (and DJ’s), because the weather is just a bit gloomier, (a bit baltic) the average functioning person goes home for Christmas. Most label’s organise tours around Oceania (no not the club but Australia, New Zealand… Come on) during the winter period – the poor artists continue to hear their own mind orchestra’s played on repeat – they never get to sleep.

They wish that they had a warm home to go to and sit by a encroaching Norwegian Spruce, with begrimed tacky lights, and ornaments that evoked some emotive remission to succeed in purchasing from Tiger. Im joking.

We should be thinking about the artists who really care, the ones you see in clubs and think “shit is he okay?” The strain of making commercial tracks shows as they use eye drops give a nice empty smile as they pose for your pictures, the man or woman just wanted to make sounds they believed in, but that doesn’t matter because the labels just want people to buy or stream their music.

nstead of culturally appropriating, making money off racial stereotypes or making faker than silicon albums and winning Grammy’s for best music video, when the rest of the attentive public were blown away the ‘invisible camera in the mirror scene’ in L$D. That video alone made the jaw clench of controversy colossus Romain Gavras or ‘Nabil‘.

Be humble, its Christmas, buy some music and support the artists you like or donate your organs here.

Here is a playlist, art is again here to help you find meaning in the world – where there may not be any at all.

 

II

by: freddie

 

5 Tracks for your week

  1. A favourite track on Lunice‘s new ‘180’ – EP.
  2. British producer SOPHIE‘s final track release, completing his debut album PRODUCT, which came out on the 27th under another ground breaking scottish record label Numbers.
  3. Sevdaliza continuing to be among the exemplary artists of counter-culture.
  4. Because Black Friday, and Cyber Monday have ruined every other persons inbox, Kendrick’s comment on the consumerist convention  liberated the benighted.
  5. Jazz Cartier is gaining momentum and is proving to be the one to watch.

 

Lunice – 180

Last night the record label LuckyMe Records, from Glasgow, founded by Dominic Flanagan and Martyn Flynn (a beautiful man who was more than happy to give a few words of support), held a surprise free London event to start Lunice’s tour of Europe.

Lunice’s heated and intimate set opened with a remix of ‘BBHMM’ and the vocal cues of Assassin from ‘Im In It’, to let the crowd know the Montreal producer was present. The strobe  burnt into the eyes of the audience as ‘dial’ played, King Lunice drummed off his Akai MPC, we were even blessed with unreleased TNGHT tracks including ‘Uh Uh’. The B-boy turned virtuoso gave a phenomenal spectacle at the Dance Tunnel.

This was going to be a post without mentioning Hudson Mohawke, however just past 10p.m. a man named Ross Birchard ambled in with his companion, he hoped to do this unrecognised, fortune and its gift was not so sweet that night for him as I offered praise for his 40 minute rap monument.

Many people scream and call him dad at live shows, its a cult thing, he has also had a hand in every other Yeezus hit. The shy Scottish gorgeous Glaswegian genius had just arrived back in the UK to see his ‘TNGHT’ counterpart, “just a bit tired” from work in the U.S. He is a well grounded man and I was infatuated by him, his music speaks for itself. I will see him again next week at the Roundhouse and call him dad.

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A comment of pure wisdom from his documentary ‘Very First Breath’

The LuckyMe family feature: S-type, Eclair Fifi, Jacques Greene, DJ Paypal, Cashmere Cat… they sign everyone worth listening to.

Why mention LuckyMe? Why is the sky blue? Why is water wet?

Rustle’s (Russell Whyte) latest release Evenifyoudontbelieve, which saw a return to his raw production like his debut Warp released album Glass Swords. This release was under Warp and also featured the eye of LuckyMe and himself (feat. Rustie, produced by Rustie) many wonder if he got this from Marc Jacobs. Rustie has been seen to be corrupting minds with sonic philosophy together with S-type. Rustie is in danger of being put on trail by Meletus for giving eargasms in public spaces, the same goes for S-type and his remix of Obey City – Waterbed, which you can listen to here.

The pre-mastered tracks of the duo’s next release have been sighted over the LuckMe twitter page.

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…still waiting for that.

Oh yeah and that.

 

 

Photographer for your Week

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Emanuele D’Angelo

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Emanuele D’Angelo is the founder of the lifestyle network LivinCool (Art, Music, Fashion, Travel), there you can see his choice of muses and maestros expressing the avant-garde, as he does in his photography. Below is Raury, 19-year-old musician suffering from success in Saint Laurent boots.

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He is either spotted shooting in LA at his Sheats Goldstein Residence even with Kacy Hill (Model, provocateur, G.O.O.D. Music signed, Yeezy protégé). He travels to every continent and has been published by a number of established magazines. If he is not featuring some of the greatest designers, or artists in Fashion and music, he is dining with jaw shattering models such as Emily Ratajkowski in London at the Chiltern Firehouse.

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You can get his last publication, October in Tokyo here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

one

by: freddie

A diet of menthol cigarettes and free coffee at 7pm on wednesday, the promoter and I shared an amicable exchange on our mothers calling us both the past tense of draw. I had just missed Flat White playing the night before due to the need to stroke my friends cats, I also missed S-type playing on Monday to an extensive phone call to my mum. But fuck yes mum, a boiler room, in shoreditch, nothing like Flat White wearing his own fashion label ‘Off White’ , while Future (hendrix) base is served in the basement (pardon that bullshit joke) of the Red Gallery.

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I wish my benevolent mum had come, she would have loved to see me smile like I did when I was a child, but this time her warm beautiful brown skinned child was just trying to keep out of being in the endless gifs of awkward boiler room recordings. Yeah, the one where Kaytranada (Kay-Kay) is watching the decks and people wiping their natural oils on his shoulder, not the nice oils you find in Norwegian spa’s or the ones your uncle tried to put on you either.

Only 6ft Mykki Blanco can sweat so heavily in a Nike sports bra, while making it look like William L Pope visual art piece, surrounded by the citizens of Berlin Techno. Mykki Blanco, is all of art and androgyny, and i know he smelt of sweet magnolia blossoms after that Jimmy Edgar boiler room, who needs his own page of deliberation, id love to love him, and give him a massage and play with his hair if he consents to it and i am not objectifying him in sort.

The fake road man nike-cap, man bag, positioning adolescents added a wonderful sense of ill-placed smugness from the ancien east regime now displays the new gentrified theatre for grime, like when G.W. Bush did the ice bucket challenge, without shouting “Lock arff”. You are not helping yourself. It was great, i would love to meet the kids who lined up screaming at anyone in the smoking area to leave so they could get in as snapping their grandparents heart monitors for 50 likes on instagram was not enough for their peers appreciation.

Wow that is harsh.

No, nothing is real just lay in bed and listen to Carl Sagan.

“I’m joking, I’m just serious”, but yes Boiler Room maintained its pre-eminence of the underground night with Section Boyz and “Mandem” including: Stormzy, Novelist, Jammer…BBK. London grime is establishing its empire, a new Holy Roman Empire, but who do you call the Pope or the Habsburgs, Skepta? Dizzy Rascal?

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I came for Flat White, as the Chicago DJ, Virgil Abloh, creative director of “Off-White” a new collection of “practical conceptual” street influenced fashion. Virgil DJ’s, works on projects with Kanye West, shoots with Vic Mensa, throws Travis Scott his aesthetics for performances, and has the time to bless us us on a Tuesday night in the cold. A paragon of 21st century multi-talented  visionaries which Kanye West understandably backs.

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Here is Virgil, A$AP and Kanye, hanging out today, from virgil’s instagram, as a triumvirate of contemporary music and fashion.

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…by the time he played Hackney Parrot by Tessla, which DJ EZ also injects into  his introductions, I looked at someone in a disposition close to a nose bleed. It was intense, not “in tents” but like a scene from The Eric Andre Show. Fuck, why so many dad jokes? I’ve said “too many F’s already”.

If you have read this far, why? Further, there is no prize, this is all pointless information about an irrational student in London in his own insight has the art of living without any magniloquence. This is my first post,  I am vulnerable and I want to start somewhere, and write about creativity whichever form the feeling comes from.